Until two weeks ago I’d never tasted an endive; they just always seemed too white for a vegetable and I imagined them to be bland. This is certainly not true once they are braised – sautéed in butter then cooked for a long time in a low oven, with a bit of lemon and salt. The result is buttery, soft and sweet, with only a hint of lemony bitterness. They are my new favorites and I want to make them all the time, like it’s some new exciting dish, even though it comes straight from the cuisine bourgeoise of the 1950s.